I look at the 1-star reviews first to see just what so bothers people. Often it's something random ("I could not open the plastic wrap") that really has no bearing on the product itself.
If no one has a legit killer complaint I look at the middle-star reviews.
Sometimes, though, the 1-star reviews point out some flaw or omission that you'd never know about until you owned the thing for a bit, and you end up feeling duped if you bought it (hence the 1-star venom).
There's a point, though, where you have to ask yourself what's the worst that happens if you end up with a piece of crap. How much time/money are you out?
The problem (as the ladle purchase shows) is that it can become a sort of personal challenge; "I will get the best item for my money!" Even when it make no sense.